
Xoi Dua La Dua (Coconut Sweet
Sticky Rice with Fragrant Leaf Flavor)
"Check out the natural
green of Xoi Dua La Dua, isnt it beautiful? I not only love the color
of la dua (fragrant leaf) but also its exquisite
aroma and tang. Waking up in the morning smelling the steam of Xoi Dua La Dua
is just reviving. Forget about Donkin or Krispy Kreme
donuts, just give me a handful of Xoi Dua La Dua with a cup of coffee and I
am all set for the morning".(D. Truong from My Tho, Vietnam).
"The leavess aroma is distinct and hard to describe, somewhat nutty,
reminiscent to fresh hay and definitely pleasant. A similar scent is found in
some aromatic rice varieties grown in South East Asia. (e.g., Thai jasmine rice)
Its actually the aroama you smell when a breeze passses through a rice field
close to harvest time. This is one of the reasons why South East Asians throw
a small blade in to their pot when they cook rice from the previous harvest,
presumably to restore the newly harvested fragrance that has faded". (from
the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters)
Lá
Dua
Cosmetic
& Aromatic Uses
Another
interesting and useful attribute to this herb is that roaches tend to dislike
the compounds of La Dua leaves. In
Mid-eastern
Indians use the flower of this plant in making perfume, while in
Culinary
Uses*
In
cooking, the leaf is used in cake, which is similar to the American sponge cake.
The La Dua leaf has also been used in rice and making different type of curries.
La Dua leaves are used in Southeast Asian cooking to add a distinct aroma to
rice and curry dishes such
as
Nasi lemak, Kaya preserves, and desserts such as sweet cake. For festive holidays
and ceremonies, La Dua is used with the essences of rose to flavor spicy rice
dishes such as Biryani. La Dua leaf is used in flavoring sweet desserts and
rice dishes in Indochina Asian cuisines.
Chemical
Components
The
best candidate is 2-acetyl-1-pyrroline (2AP), which was found in the leaves
at levels of about 1ppm and which also occurs in aromatic rice cultivars such
as Basmati & Thai Jasmine; another possibility is ethyl formiate, which
is also common to both rice and La Dua leaves.
Background
History
In
ancient times, the leaves were used for making thatched huts and women’s grass
skirts. Strips of the leaves are used in making woven baskets throughout Indo-china
used to serve rice or other food items.
Lá
Dua P. latifolius, P. amaryllifolius,
P.Odoratissimus Roxb botanical
In
Thai gai hor bai toey cuisine leaves are used as fragrant wrappers.
La
Dua chicken, gai hor bai toey, is a classical recipe
and an eternal favorite in restaurants: Marinated chicken bits are wrapped in
leaves and deep-fried in a wok. Although the leaves are too hard to eat, they
impart a most exotic aroma to the meat.
All
over South East Asia, La Dua leaves find their most important culinary application
in desserts: In Thailand, iced drinks from young coconuts with La Dua flavour
are popular, and in Indonesia, theleaves are made into ice cream like concoctions
(espandan, see also vanilla on the topic of ice creams). Furthermore,
La Dua leaves appear more frequently in sweet puddings or custards based on
sticky (glutinous) rice. For these concoctions, glutinous rice is boiled with
water, palm sugar and La Dua leaves to yield a heavy mass that becomes semi-solid
on cooling. Before serving, thick coconut milk is sprinkled over it. It is often
possible to substitute La Dua by vanilla or nutty flavours (e.g., hazelnut extract)
in these recipes, although the flavours are not too similar.
Main
constituents
The
flavour component of leaves is not well known. It is speculated that the flavor
is a volatile product of oxidative degradation of a yellow carotenoid pigment
that forms only when the plant withers. In that respect, there are similarities
to saffron and rose, which also contain carotenoid-derived aroma compounds.
Yet
another study found 3-methyl-2-(5H)-furanone as main volatile compound in La
Dua leaves, besides 3-hexanol, 4-methylpentanol, 3-hexanone and 2-hexanone (Flavor
and Chemistry of Ethnic Foods, [Proceedings of a Meeting held during the 5th
Chemical Congress of
North
America],
On
distillation, the leaves do yield traces of an essential oil, but it is unclear
to which extent the volatile oil contributes to the flavour.
In
Sri Lankan & Vietnamese La Dua leaves (p. Latifolius, allegedly synonym
to p. Amaryllifolius), the following aroma components have been identified in
concentrations less than one microgram per kilogram (ppb) fresh material: styrene
0.62, formylthiphene 0.76, linalool
0.29, β-caryophyllene 0.55, β-farnesene 0.18, 1,2-dimethoxybenzene
0.15 and β-selinene 1.24 ppb.
(Phytochemistry, 21, 1653-1657, 1982)
Other
than its flower yielding relatives, Lá Dua
is not known in the wild state. Today, it is distributed over Southern India
peninsular, Indochina, Indonesia, and
(exerpts from Gernot Katzer's Spice Dictionary)
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